Lard and onion foam for brunch? – Elda Bistro

by Jason

It’s becoming easier and easier to find a decent brunch spot in Montreal. Whether it’s a place that specifically specializes in breakfast seven days a week or restaurants opening their doors early on a Sunday offering up their version of boozey brunches with bottomless cups of coffee offering help to nurse any regretful Saturday night decisions. Luckily I don’t really need coercing of any hangover out of my body but I often do need brunch in me. I recently visited Elda in the Mile-End to see what kinds of delicious dishes they were serving up for brunch.

The brunch menu is separated into two main categories, “Savory” and “Sweet”. Blackboard specials are also available. We started with an order and accras – fried cod cakes serves with spicy mayo. The fritters were warm and supple with a crunchy exterior. The flaked fish lent a slight briny taste to each bite that was cut by a quick squeeze of lemon.

The huevos rancheros – two fried tortillas topped with sunny-side-up eggs, frijoles, peppers and tomato sauce, sliced avocados, shredded cheese, drizzled with sour cream, garnished with fresh cilantro, micro greens and a few tortilla chips for good measure. The best part of this dish is the edges of the freshly fried tortilla that remained dry crisped up nicely and added great texture to each bite. The soggy tortilla under the nice and runny eggs disintegrated and was messy to eat. Flavor of the frijoles was smokey and nicely accented by the fresh zesty salsa.

Maple and white wine braised pork shoulder topped on a buttery cauliflower and chive scone, topped with a sunny side up egg in a lard and onion foam, garnished with pickled melons, roasted potatoes and croutons. The pork was lusciously tender, falling apart, salty and delicious. I was skeptical of the foam at first, but it worked perfectly. As it settled, the sauce that the foam rendered down to was light and airy in both texture and taste that was eventually soaked up by the scone.

The pickled melons definitely cut through the unctuousness of each bite and with the help the fresh greens brightened up each mouthful. The dish was hearty and a great way to send you back to bed after brunching in the Mile-End.

Elda is a quaint neighborhood bistro situated on The Main serving European inspired farm-to-table bistro dishes offered with a privately imported wine list. The place shines through despite serving brunch in the shadow of two other well known weekend brunch heavy hitters in the area; and by area I mean within the same one-block radius. Classic cocktails as well as “extras” section where you can essentially build your own traditional breakfast dish. A great destination in this very brunch corner of the city.

5206 St Laurent Blvd
(438) 387-6050

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