I’ll be the first to say that sometimes it’s hard to find a place to eat in Montreal. Crazy right? No. I say it’s hard to find a place to eat not because of the scarcity of options, but the sheer amount of places to choose from. I’ve eaten at over 400 restaurants in Montreal (past and present, opened or now closed) and have reviewed over 300 of them. It’s easy to overlook places that may not be too obvious and that you’ve become stomach blind to. Spots where you’ve casually passed but never considered eating at. I’m guilty of this many times over – especially in the Old Port. But I made it a personal goal of mine to find those diamonds peppered within the tourist trap coals. This week I checked out the new menu at Verses Bistro.
I was reading up on the latest census report on the west island and believe it or not, there are more dumpling restaurants west of highway 13 per capita than there are in all of China. Crazy right? No, that’s not true, I just made that fact up. But imagine all the dumpling restaurants that exist in China. How do you know which ones are good? I took it upon myself to seek out which dump shop is the best in the west. Because obviously when you think West island, you think dumplings. I sought out to see which places are worth eating at. This week, my quest takes me to 1930 Shanghai.
Picture a dimly lit alley steps away from the hustle and bustle of a typical Tokyo street. Along a row of wooden doors sits a hidden oasis of food and drink where locals congregate and strangers make new friends. A mix of J-pop and Japanese oldies fill the air and ride a smoke scented draft wafting from the kitchen. Small bites of fried goodies and raw seafood, pepper the tables and glimmers and random lights are caught on the edges of cocktail glasses. This is Hanzo Izakaya. Owned and operated by the same team that brought to you Escondites, biirū, La Habanera, Kao Lua, and Gokudo, Hanzo Izakaya is Tokyo at night where wisps of neon lights creep in through noren curtains inviting you into a familiar place for a drink.
Street food. Why are people obsessed with it? For the same reason my room is painted bright red and I’ve already planned to name my first child Ferrari – we want what we don’t have – my dog is also named Kim Kardashian. Back to “street food”. We don’t have it a legit street food scene here, which leaves us with a crater-sized craving for the things we’ve seen fetishized on tv and Youtube. If you’ve watched that NetFlix Docuseries, you’d understand what I’m talking about. Sure we have food trucks and open-air food festivals, but that’s not the same. No matter how hard we try, we’ll always have a pathetic, second-rate attempt at something authentic and so bastardized it becomes a caricature of itself. This is why when you’re looking for authentic street food, you have too look indoors. This week I checked out a cozy spot in Montreal West serving authentic Chinese street food – Montreal Crêpes & Dumplings Chinois.
What goes through your mind when you think about the food scene in Outremont? Quiet cafes tucked away on the side streets, little bistros du quartier with casual terrasses that line the sidewalks. Hipster wine bars that serve “small plates to share”? Sure, that, but what if I told you that as of now, you can find fiery authentic Thai street food in Outremont? You’d think I’ve been taking too many summer fish sauce shots and crushing one too many noodle bowls. But it’s true. I recently hit up a new local hot spot that’s guaranteed to shock the vanilla neighbourhood with it’s spicy flavours and neon lights. I visited Tham Ma Da.
I’m going to start this week’s review with a slow clap… *Slow clap* dedicated to D.D.O. (Dollard-Des Ormeaux), yes, the West island. Why? Well, bravo dido, for the second review in a row the west has impressed me with not only a legit restaurant but another legit ethnic restaurant. Congratulations! You guys now have an official KFC restaurant… Korean Fried Chicken! I discovered Restaurant Matjip BBQ Coréen recently when I noticed the God-awful pizza place that use to be in this location finally closed and became a Korean restaurant. I had to check it out.
I love dumplings. I give classes on dumplings. I basically look like a giant overstuffed dumpling. Needless to say, I’m all about dat dumpling lyfe. I’m always on the looking for new places to cop these little bundles of meat filled joy in and around the city. The last time I had dumplings in the West Island it was a catastrophe. The pitiful plateful of burned frozen dumplings were more disappointing than if season 8 of Game of Thrones was rewritten and then fucked up a second time. I didn’t let this one bad experience extinguish all hope of finding dumplings worth eating west of the 13. In the spring, I noticed a very unassuming store front when I was driving along St. Jean. I remember seeing the sign for this store. The sign was of a dumpling. Was this the sign I was waiting for? Finally after weeks of papered up windows and disappointed drive-bys, the windows were clear and there was signs of life… or signs of dumplings inside. I tried Mama Dumplings.
I love when people let me know of good spots to eat. Be it hole-in-the-wall gems, lesser known eateries, or even up and coming places, I appreciate them all. I’ve said it time and time again, you can walk 15 minutes in any direction in any neighbourhood and find a great place to eat. One oh those neighbourhoods being Saint-Michel. From Chinese fondue at Kim Long, Portuguese chicken at O Cantinho or regional nissan cuisine at Thai Sep, this hood has it all. After I was obsessing (I still obsess) about my favorite banh mi spot in St. Michel Sandwicherie Sue someone informed me about Sak’s Sandwicherie. I was told that they’re another solid spot for legit banh mi and that I had to go try. Boy were they were wrong.
If I were to say, “Indian brunch”, what’s the first thing that pops into your head? Runny eggs wrapped dosa served with dahl and chutney? Fruit chaat with yogurt and saffron? Puri? What if I were to say, “Indian cuisine inspired brunch“? What now? Runny eggs served with garam masala spiced potatoes with a side of whole wheat naan? Some sort of red curry shakshuka? If I want a meal of a certain cuisine, I’d choose what that cuisine serves for that meal; Chinese breakfast: congee and youtiao (cruller), Vietnamese breakfast: pho, American breakfast: cheeseburger and a texmex-burrito. I’m often skeptical of when restaurants do fusion – let alone for fusion breakfast. However my opinion changed when I had to the opportunity to discover what an Indian fusion brunch is all about when I visited India Rosa.
There are certain foods that I’ve said I can eat everyday and never get tired of. One of those things is pizza. Any kind of pizza. From artisanal thin crust Neapolitan pizza to classic Montreal “all dress'” grease-wheels (I’m looking at you Pendelli’s). Sometimes I like to go back and visit some of my favourite places joints. Recently I’ve been on a pizza kick – and by recently I mean the past 30 years. To celebrate my 30-somethingth birthday, I checked out a new pizza spot in Verdun that has people talking… and I’m listening – Restaurant Rita.